Sweet Sweet Sevilla (January 19th)

I'm back! I left Nice, France at 10 am yesterday and, 22 hours later, I stepped off the train in Sevilla. It took a total of 4 trains (though one doesn't really count because it just went from one train station in Barcelona to another) but I made it! Though I must admit that exhaustion doesn't fully convey how tired I feel right now. Hecho polvo would be better. Estoy hecho polvo. Its one of the first expressions I learned in Spain that people use only in the most 'tired' of circumstances. It was nice coming back, though my host family had changed my room and left all of my things kind of strewn across the bed and floor, but I think I'll be ok. As long as I can find enough space to sleep, I'll deal with all of that later. Im also going to start getting some pictures up her to beautify this blog a bit. Not yet, but soon. I kind of feel like I should write a little conclusion to my one month long European, train travel adventure - pay it the respect that it deserves...

I guess that you could say I left Sevilla one month ago hoping to come back with something new. Not a thing, but an idea. Not necessarily 'answers', per say, but something that would help me view the world in a new light. It was an adventure, to say the least. Full of its ups and its downs. The joy of meeting new people from all over the world interlaced with the solitude, and sometimes the pain, of being alone. The frustration of not being able to find a hostel complimented by the euphoria, the sense of accomplishment, when I actually would find it. The irritation of having to do it all alone, of having to figure it all out by myself, but the satisfaction that I was able to do it. I had to prove it to myself - that I could be fine, that I could make it through any type of situation, any number of obstacles - and I did.

This month forced me to open myself up to anybody from anywhere. It taught me how to make great friends in the span of 3 or 4 days. It taught me people skills, travel skills, perseverance skills. How to cope with mistakes and then how to learn from them. How to be more aware, more alert, of everything going on around me. How to feel comfortable and at ease in foreign situations. There were times when I doubted myself, asked myself if I made the right decision to stay in Europe and travel over the holidays alone. Now I know for certain, beyond a doubt, that I did make the right choice. At the very least I could have gone to Prague, Amsterdam and Germany with two of my friends from the program, but then I would only have been on my own for one week. Instead I chose to take the road less traveled. It reminds me of this little magnet my mom once gave me, I don't remember the exact words, but its something like this: Two paths in a forest and I, I take the one less traveled by. Via that less traveled path I have grown, I have come into my own. Become more of a man. More confident, more self-assured. More proud, but more humble. I have learned to embrace what is new, to live in the moment, but at the same time remember and cherish what is old. I will never have these exact experiences again, but I will hold onto them forever.

I wanted to come away with something new, and I have. New friends, new stories, new pictures, new views. Life can be broken down into two extreme conditions - living in complete solitude and living in the constant presence of other people. I think that in order to be happy, I must always do two things: 1) maintain a strong connection with nature and 2) find a balance between those two extremes of solitude and company. In solitude, within ourselves, is where we find answers and in company is where we give those answers meaning - where we give those answers life. I have learned to love and enjoy my time with others, but also to treasure those moments in which I only have my own thoughts to keep me company. This month can be defined in the people that I have met, and what I had to go through, alone, in order to meet those people. I've learned to not let myself hold onto regrets or, better said, to not let past decisions that I would later regret weigh me down. (I don't mean this in terms of conscious decisions that go against my values - that would be worth regretting - but common, everyday choices that, looking back on it, I would do differently). Zurmatt is the perfect example. I went there with one goal - to see the Matterhorn. I spent 60 euros getting there, 50 euros staying there for one night (the most expensive hostel I stayed in - and far from the best), plus money for food. And the entire time the Matterhorn was engulfed in a thick layer of clouds, from its base to its peak. I even got up at 6:30 am to hike up there to try to see more to no avail. Moral of the story, I could have let this weigh me down. I could have let it cut into my enjoyment of the proceeding days; but instead I decided to accept it and learn from it - for example, if I ever go again, I will be sure to check the weather reports first.

I've learned to not let little things get to me. A lost jacket here, a forgotten notebook there. Dirty sheets, messy bathrooms, uncomfortable beds. People like this guy that was sitting next to me on an 8 hour train ride - he had his music, hard core heavy metal, blasting and was breathing obnoxiously loud out of his nose the entire time. I've learned that the best way to cope with misfortune, at least the kind that I was prone to experiencing, is through laughter. It keeps you light of heart and mind and thinking positively. I've learned to take advantage of every opportunity - something that I think I knew beforehand but I had never really put into practice as I did on this trip - like going to the Fifa Headquarters in Zürich, though it was way out of the way, then proceeding to ask for a job and kiss the world cup trophy. At the same time, however, I've learned to not get upset when I couldn't or just simply didn't do something that I wanted to do, such as visit the so proclaimed "must-see's" of every city. I've had more opportunities to practice my patience (though I still don't think that I can fully say that I have 'learned' patience yet haha) whether it be waiting for trains to arrive for full nights in random train stations or waiting on people.

I've learned that an unanticipated bump in the road or last minute change in plans can lead to some of my favorite memories, like when you mess up a line in a painting you can work with it to create something more unique and more beautiful than you could ever imagine. I've learned that it isn't the city or the place that allows me to have a good or bad time, but it is me. It is the attitude that I have, the expression on my face, that ultimately decides whether or not I will enjoy myself. For every down there is an up, or as my cousin Connor once told me, for every rain there is a rainbow. But for every one frown there can be a hundred smiles. For every one cry a thousand laughs. Its all about attitude. Give everything you have to life and life will give everything it has to you. Accept other people into your life and they'll accept you into theirs. Be happy and happiness will find you. Live a life with no regrets and then you will live a life not worth regretting.

V for Venice (14-15)

To my surprise, after 20 minutes of getting to Venice I was standing in the hostel. Bad Gastein aside, that rarely happens to me. Venice turned out to be a great decision, too. The hostel was a lot of fun, small and sociable, free dinner and breakfast and great people. I didn't do a whole lot of touristy things aside from walk around with a map, but sometimes I think it can be more fun to see a city that way. Grant it you don't learn the history and such that you would with a tour guide, but you have to be more alert in where you are going, knowing that it is up to you to get back. I spent most of the day with two australians and a canadian. We took a boat out to an island where there was a glass blowing show which was amazing - you try to watch every little action as carefully as possible, but suddenly a ball of hot glass has transformed into a beautiful, curving vase. It happened right in front of my eyes, but really it didn't because I couldn't see it happen. It just did. Kind of like how people age. We spent the rest of day wandering the streets of Venice, taking pictures at every canal (a lot of pictures) and eating some authentic Italian pizza and crepes... even though I thought that those were French.

I woke up the next morning (Saturday) with absolutely no idea of where I was going to go. I eventually decided that I would just go book the night train from Milan to Barcelona (being that I wanted to be in Sevilla on Sunday) but, and this one hadn't happened to me yet, I was told that the train only runs on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Not only that but the reservation fee for the train was a ridiculous 70 euros (its a 'special' train, they said) - even with my rail pass. I asked for different routes but these italian train people are trained to try to swindle as much money out of you as possible, so even if there were other routes that day that didn't have reservation fees, I wasn't given any help. So i was forced to get creative. In order to avoid the fee and avoid waiting around until Monday, I eventually figured it out that I would have to spend one night in Milan, catch two trains to get to Nice, France the next day; spend a night in Nice (where I am now), catch a train to Montpellier and then to Barcelona the following day (tomorrow, which is monday) and then hop on a night train to Sevilla, arriving tuesday morning. In other words, it was and is all very confusing. But I think it speaks to the lessons that i've learned since beginning this journey a month ago. Sure, I would have been disappointed in having to pay 70 euros and wait around until monday, but I sincerely think that I would have done it. I wouldn't have known, much less even considered, doing it any other way. As my dad says wisdom is putting to use those things that you've learned along the way; so I think that I am a little bit wiser now when it comes to traveling via trains. Lets hope so at least, I mean I haven't actually got to sevilla yet.... But, if anything, taking this more confusing route has allowed me to see the beautiful coastlines of western italy and the south of france. They are definitely places that I need to go back to. Huge, towering cliffs shooting out of the baby blue ocean, sprinkled with little houses here and there amidst lush, green jungle like forestry. It makes for a beautiful and incredibly enticing scene.

Unfortunately i got to Nice as the sun was setting down, but my train to Montpellier doesnt leave until 10 tomorrow morning so that gives me some time to wander down to the sea side before I head out.

If all goes according to plan, the next update should be on a train to Sevilla!

Skiin with Norwegian (Bad Gastein, Austria 11-13)

Bad Gastein, Good skiing

This 2^nd ski excursion for me was far better than the first. To begin with, getting to the hostel didn’t require any nights spent in train stations. It did require two trains from Budapest, but the hostel was a convenient 80 meters from the train station and made for an easy find. I was in a 16 bed dorm so I was a little worried that it could prove challenging to meet people (I guess it kind of goes against logic, but I’ve found that when there are less people it is usually easier to meet somebody) but I met some norwegians almost as soon as I got there. There were 13 of them in a 4 month program in which they travel the world skiing and going through avalanche courses, and they were in Bad Gastein for 1 week. The next day I went skiing with them and I was very lucky that I did. To the tourist (which in this case was me – they were too, but had already been skiing there for 4 days) it didn’t look like there was much to the mountain. It was very steep, but narrow as well and from the gondola one could only see two actual runs on the entire face of the mountain. Luckily, these guys knew the secret stashes and we found some great fields of fresh, untouched powder. Not quite as deep as some of the stuff in Aspen, but fluffy, soft and b-e-a-utiful. I did have one consistent problem, however. Here were these hard core norwegians with the most up to date equipment – thick powder ski’s, revolutionary boots, the latest and greatest bindings, avalanche beacons, ect – and all I had were the most basic 26 euro rental ski’s.  The ‘basic’ skies had a deal with the hostel, which is why I was able to get them so cheaply for two days, if I had gone up to the ‘pro’ ski the price would have more than doubled.

Anyways, it wasn’t a huge deal until my ski’s started popping off like fire crackers on the 4^th of July. It took almost nothing, a tiny pump, thick powder, too much pressure, too much speed (meaning about 3 miles an hour) and off they would fly. Sometimes I would be going at a normal pace on a groomed run then I would see a ski careening down the mountain in front of me, look down, and notice that, “hey, I only have one ski on”. That first day I lost my ski’s a total of  20 times. No joke. And, of those 20, there was only one occasion that I can remember when they actually should have come off.

I have to admit that it was funny though and made for good conversation on the lifts and after skiing. Aside from the fact that I spent half of the day with no ski’s on, the norwegians were impressed with my skiing. They laughed at it, calling it “old school” – legs together, lots of tight turns; I have my mom and Uncle Tom to thank for that – but they couldn’t deny being a bit impressed. The second day of skiing was a bit better in terms of the losing the skies problem because I tightened the bindings as much as possible. All in all, however, it was too full days of skiing on stuff other than ice – the makings of any successful ski trip.

Bad Gastein is a small town that makes its money off of the tourist industry. I was there for three nights and didn’t meet so much as one Austrian. Everybody - the workers, the skiers - everybody was either Norwegian, Swedish or Danish; which I didn’t mind because they were all friendly and fluent in English. (Not only do they start learning it from a young age, but all of the American movies/tv shows that they watch have subtitles, meaning they are not dubbed. This is a stark contrast to countries like Spain in which all of the movies are dubbed over and the people are terrible at English). All of these Norwegians and Sweds and Danish people didn’t actually live there per say but were on vacation or renting out an apartment for the winter months, working the nights and skiing during the days.

It is nearing the end of my vacation! The plan is to be back in Sevilla by Sunday the 17^th. I think I technically have until Tuesday, but I am running out of things to do/the desire to do them. I didn’t decide until this very morning, but I am currently headed towards Venice. As of now I will only be there for one night, (after which I will start the long journey back to Spain, maybe with a night in France) but if I like the city and the hostel I will stay there for two and then head straight back to Spain.

I think that’s about it for now! I did have another glitch in my ever entertaining travels, but nothing too serious. My first train was about an hour late in arriving and when it eventually came I didn’t even see it until it was leaving. There were only two tracks, but a huge train had arrived on the track closest to me (track number one) and my train was supposed to come on track number one so I went to take a quick bathroom break, assuming that I still had some time. However, when I got out and the big train pulled out, and loe and behold there was my train on the other side (track 2) pulling out of the station as well. Even if I had seen it come in I don’t know how I would have gotten over there, because there was no underground passage way and the other train was so long that it would have taken me 5 minutes to walk around. Anyways, that forced me to wait another hour and a half and then catch a bus to Venice from the connecting station (because I missed the train). But I’m on the bus now! Should be in Venice in an hour and at my hostel in an hour and a half…. Keep your fingers crossed! Even though nobody will actually read this until I’m at my hostel being that I don’t have an internet connection….

Austria/Budapest (6/11)

So lets see, I finished writing my last blog update on a train headed for Salzburg, Austria. Looking back, I see that I wrote that I would be there by 11 that night… I was almost 12 hours off – I finally arrived at 9 the following morning. To begin with, the fast, efficient, reliable, world class Swiss train system did not live up to its billing. There were times when we would stay stopped at train stations for 10 or 15 minutes with nobody boarding or leaving. On the monitors in the aisles they tell you the planned travel time and the actual travel time - it was torturous to say the least; sitting there, not moving, watching our actual arrival time fall further and further behind. I was about 25 minutes late to Salzburg so I missed my connecting train. I asked the information desk for help and they directed me to another train that I could take, only I would have to do another transfer. Heading the said advice, I took that train and upon exiting I asked another worker for directions to Kitsubhel. He pointed me to a train that was about to leave so, without any time to look at the signs for myself, I hopped on it. By the time the train arrived at its final destination we still hadn’t passed the stop that I needed. I got off of the train (by this time it was about 11) and looked for further connections. Unfortunately no trains were running again until 5 am. So here I was, in the middle of Austria, in some tiny, random, tucked away train station in the Alps amidst a snow storm for the ages. I found a tiny room in the tiny station and decided that it would have to serve as my bed room for the night.  The room was warm and there were a couple of tin bins that I could curl up on, but it was also where the coffee machine was and, therefore, was full of workers coming in and out of it at all hours of the night. Luckily they didn’t say anything to me, or at least not anything that I understood, so I was able to find a couple of hours of rest. I got up at 5:45 to catch the 6am train that I needed, but (of course) that train was canceled, thus forcing me to wait for the 6:45 train. It was only about a 30-minute ride to St. Johann in Tirol (kitsbuhel), but from there I had to catch a bus to get to my hostel/the mountain. The bus was late in arriving and I was about 5 minutes from getting on the train and going back to Spain when it finally pulled up. The ride to Ellmau (the town where my hostel was) took about 25 minutes and, as if it wasn’t enough, the hostel itself was not easy to find. (It was also a confusing experience because of the number of names this place has – it is technically called “Kitsbuhel” ski area, but it is made up of about 6 other towns all with their own train stations or stations close by. My hostel was located in a town called Ellmau and St. Johann in Tirol was the closest station to the town).

So, quite the experience to say the least! Haha …. Fortunately I was rewarded by two full days of skiing. I got there early in the morning, so I was still able to ski most of the first day and the second day all I had on my agenda was to ski – which I did. The hostel was a family run ordeal and was brand new. The family didn’t actually live there, but they would come by every now and then to check on things. There was also nobody else in the hostel besides me (probably due to its newness) so I had it all to myself for two nights – which was relaxing, but a bit lonely. The skiing itself wasn’t too much to talk about (but I hear that its been like that everywhere this winter). The mountain was huge – the resort is really made up of about 4 or 5 different mountains all connected via gondolas - but every run was crowded and icy. I enjoyed myself though, it had been a while since I skied and, snow or ice, I wasn’t going to complain.

After Ellmau I went to Budapest, Hungary. It was another long day of travel, but that was simply due to the length of the train rides themselves and not any other mishaps.  I was supposed to meet my friend at the hostel in Budapest but we randomly ran into each other at the train station and from there we combined our money and went the easy route of taking a taxi to the hostel. Budapest was a pretty neat city. It was rainy and cloudy both days we were there so we never got any really spectacular, awe inspiring views, but it’s a very historical city and it was nice to be with one of my friends for a few days. The best part about it was, without a doubt, a) the fact that
we had some purchasing power for the first time since Morocco and b) it had Mexican food! (the first I have had since I left the States) and, c) the fact that our hostel had football on the tv so we were able to watch a couple of the playoff games. We went to some famous thermal baths that were a lot like the Hot Springs in Glenwood Springs, only this one had a bunch of old men playing games of chess. Now its off to Bad Gastein (another ski resort in Austria, not far from the one I had just been at) for 3 nights!

Bye Bye Switzerland (4/5)

Leaving Switzerland… It’s a little bit bittersweet for me. Bitter because I have wanted to go to Switzerland for so many years now, but sweet because it is the most expensive place I have ever been and two more days in Switzerland would have ended my journey through Europe right then and there…. When you go into McDonalds for a hamburger and find that the least expensive thing on the menu (Americas version of ‘the dollar menu’) is 3 Franks and the average meal is 12 Franks (more or less 10 dollars I think), you know that something isn’t right. Either the Swiss missed the memo and somehow think that McDonalds

 is some of the highest quality gourmet food that you can find, or things are just ridiculously overpriced. I had a burger that wasn’t all that great, so I can attest to the second theory. Switzerland was, however, one of the most stunning, gorgeous places that I have ever gone. I feel like I need to come back sometime during the summer months to better take advantage of the natural beauty that it has to offer. As for seeing the Matterhorn, I woke up at 6:45 that morning to go see for myself the ‘most photographed mountain in the world’. 6:45 was at least 2 hours too early being that it didn’t even get light enough to see more than 15 feet ahead until about 9 am. I was on a mission though, so a little bit of darkness wasn’t about to stop me. I had a train to catch at 11:30 so I walked until about 9:30 to no avail. The clouds in front of the Matterhorn were so thick that by that point I was 60% positive that the mountain didn’t even exist, but was some Swiss lie that in one way or another allowed them to increase their McDonalds prices. I walked back down, got all my stuff together and when I was about 10 minutes from the train station the clouds cleared up just enough to let me see the lower half of the mountain. It wasn’t a lot, but it was all I needed to feel like the journey wasn’t a complete waste. It really did look beautiful though, and fortunately there are plenty of pictures that already exist and a ride in Disney Land, so I had a pretty good imagination of what the upper half of the mountain looked like as I stood peering up at it. 

Yesterday I went from Zurmatt to Zürich where I only stayed for one night. This morning I did the one thing that I had to do in Zürich, Switzerland – go to the FIFA headquarters. It is located a good distance outside of the city, but the public transit system is easy to navigate and my two weeks of travel experience made for a relatively easy find. Being there in Zürich, standing outside of those headquarters, not knowing when I would see them again, I knew that I would need to take full advantage of the opportunity. So I walked in, went to the front desk, and asked for a job. I told them that I didn’t care what I would be doing, I would polish the floor, clean the toilets, anything. I told them that I have been a football (soccer) fan all of my life, that I still play regularly and that I am an expert in FIFA. Unfortunately, none of my skills were needed at the moment but they told me to send in a fax or email and they would see what they could do. After that I saw the World Cup replica trophy so I knew that I needed a picture with it. I asked the front desk lady to take a picture of me and, not knowing when I would be with the world cup replica trophy again, I knew that I needed to do something special, so before she could say anything I kissed it. And now I have a sweet picture of me kissing the World Cup trophy. USA all the way baby!!

Anyways as of this very moment I am on a train headed for Salzburg, Austria. From there I have a 10 minute layover – so I really hope that this efficient, on time Swiss travel system lives up to its billing – and then a two hour train ride to a small ski town called Kitzbuhel (I should be there by 11 tonight). I will be in Kitzbuhel for 3 nights so hopefully that translates into 2 full days of skiing. After that I am going to Budapest, Hungary for 3 days where I will meet up with one of my friends from Sevilla. That is all for now! Lets go train!

Also what happened with the Broncos? Marshall and Schefler being demoted for the most important game of the season? And the Broncos apparently not showing up in any way whatsoever? I don’t get it. Maybe its time for a new coach….

Interlaken Italians (30-3)

(Left: In Florence with Hercules)
Wow, I can't believe how long it has been since I last updated my blog! I mean I guess its really only been about 6 days, but so much has happened that if feels like weeks! My last couple of days in Florence were enjoyable - I toured the academia and saw David, which was much more impressive than I ever imagined, and hung out with my roomates. We all became pretty good friends and I think I'm going to go visit two of the guys in the Netherlands (they are graduate students, studying there until July) and/or in South America at some point (they are from Chile and Columbia).
                                                                                                            
                                                                                                       (Hiking in Interlaken, had to prove that I was there...)

Lets see, so last wednesday I took the train from Florence to Milan to Interlaken. Some of the scenery we passed along the way was absolutely stunning. Small towns on green, rolling hills located on the edge of huge lakes with massive, snow capped mountains rising straight out of the water. I wish I could figure out how to get my pictures up to show everybody! Interlaken itself had me speechless (not that I had anybody to talk to when I arrived haha) and had me thinking of moving there as soon as we reached it.  A river runs through the middle of the town, a huge lake is a mere 5 minutes away and jagged peaks lock the town in - I felt like it was as close to Hoovile ("The Grinch") as anybody could ever get. I spent my second day in Interlaken wandering around, climbing hills and exploring the lake side. I don't know if I've ever taken so many pictures in only one day.

(Left: My first impression of Interlaken - I was ready to move there with that one view; the following 3 pictures are of Interlaken)

Anyways, now to explain the title of this blog. One of the beauties (and somewhat nerve-racking) things about staying in hostels is that, every time you open that door to your room, you don't know what your going to find. Are your roomates there? Do you have roomates? Are they American? Are the friendly? Well, I opened the door to my room in Interlaken to find 2 bunkbeds scrunched together, a couple feet of floor space and 3 Italian guys. They seemed nice enough, but they didn't speak English too well and I will admit that I was a bit disappointed at first. But, with anything in life, you just need to give it some time - which, in this case, was about one day. There were 4 other Italians that they were traveling with in an adjoining room and they all invited me to spend New Years Eve with them. We played fusbol, pool, sang, talked and learned about each others culture. They were hilarious guys and a couple were actually very good at english and we became pretty fast friends. The next day I was supposed to leave to another hostel in Interlaken so I didn't think that I would see them again, but the first hostel we were in was overbooked for the next 2 nights and the Italians were kicked out and put in, as luck would have it, my hostel.

The owner of the first hostel told the Italians that he would drive them to the second hostel at around 11 in the morning of the 1st of January and so I decided to wait for them to leave to see if I could hitch a ride too. We woke up at 10, at breakfast, waited until 11, then 12, then 1 and the owner still had not shown up. We went and ate lunch at McDonalds and when we got back he still had not shown up. At around 4 the owner finally got to the hostel and told us that he was in no good state for driving and that we would have to get there ourselves. He gave us directions and told us what bus to take so we all set off down the road, 7 Italians and 1 American, suitcases dragging along behind us as we made our way to Lake Lodge. This hostel was located in Iseltwald, about 30 minutes outside of Interlaken, but there is another Lake Lodge located in a neighboring town 15 minutes outside of Interlaken and, of course, the owner had 'mistakenly' given us those directions. So, after a bus ride, some walking and a little bit of confusion, we showed up at this hostel to see a sign reading "closed until April". At this exact moment, maybe the man above was sad for us, it began to pour. We were about 15 minutes from the nearest bus station and had no idea where we were supposed to go. It was this experience, that easily could have upset about 90% of travelers, that really brought us all together. We joked, laughed, sang in the rain (they love the Beatles, Bob Marley, 'singin in the rain', and blink 182) and eventually made our way to the bus and, miraculously (as it usually is when it comes to me and hostel finding/destinations in general) found the hostel.
                                                                                                    (All of the Italians that I met)

We cooked dinner that night (in water that took one        hour and 15 minutes to boil) 'murphys law' they all kept saying, and went to Burn together the next day. In those couple of days I learned much much more about Italy, Italians and Italian culture than I did in 4 days in Florence. They are from Bologna and invited me to come visit them around the 15th of January (near the end of my trip). They were probably the most easy going, chill, funny people that I have ever met. They knew more about American movie culture/actors/ect than I did, but it was the first time they had ever met an American and I think its safe to say I gave them a pretty good impression. It was a bit sad leaving, but more adventures/people to meet are ahead!                      

I am currently in Zurmatt, Switzerland - home of the famous Matterhorn; though unfortunately I have yet to see it as the clouds are covering it in, but I'm hoping to catch a glimpse of it tomorrow morning if I wake up early enough. Its a neat little town (only accessible by train) but incredibly expensive - definitely the aspen of switzerland. I was thinking of skiing here, but I've already wasted enough money in getting here/finding a hostel, so tomorrow I'm probably going to leave and head to Zurich for a couple of nights.


(Above: pondering the next move with Paolo)

I think that about brings everything up to date! Happy 2010! Lets go Broncos!