(Rabat: by far the prettiest, coolest part of the city)
Mexico, Peru, Ecuador, New Zealand, England, Spain…. These places, though obviously different from Colorado, don’t constitute culture shock. If I thought that before, I changed my mind precisely 4 days ago. Morocco, a Muslim nation, is about 35 minutes via ferry from the Southern most tip of Spain – Gibraltar (a place with a wealth of history that my Dad could tell you much more about than I can). Despite this short distance, Morocco is as stark a contrast to Spain as you will find. You leave the beaches of Gibraltar (where it is common to see women but not their bathing suit tops – not that I ever look or anything, it’s just what people tell me…) and arrive in Morocco (in a city called Tanger) where it is almost a rarity to see the full face of a woman, and never any other skin aside from her hands. I mean you see this on TV all the time, but actually being there, right in the middle of it, is a completely different experience. In Spain, as you all know by now, the nights really don’t get going until 11 or 12 pm and alcohol is almost a way of life. In Morocco everybody is in bed, or at least in their house, by, at the latest, 9 pm and alcohol is forbidden according to Islamic law. The streets are cleared out, aside from the vast amounts of trash that litter the ground as though the use of trash cans is looked down upon, the house is quiet and everybody is in bed or headed in that direction (I guess that this shouldn’t be too big of a culture shock to me, being that it is what happens at my home – where 9 o’clock is pushing it - but for some reason it seemed to me a very odd concept). To sum things up, I guess that it is easiest to say that Spain is by far the most liberal country that I have ever been to and Morocco is by far the most conservative.
(above: ridin' some llamas!
right: the house, apparently a typical muslim house)
The first two nights we stayed in a home stay with a Moroccan family in the capital city of Rabat. This experience was one of the most revealing and mind opening of my life. Sure, there are the little things, like a literal whole in the ground that serves as a toilet, which is in the middle of the shower, which makes up just about all of the bathroom. There is the food – a big bowl of kuskus or chicken or spaghetti – that is placed in the center of the table from which everybody eats using their right hand only (its very bad manners to use the left). Lunch and dinner are also strictly for eating, not for socializing – the only conversation we engaged in focused on how to get the coke from one end of the table to the other. Then there is the house itself, which was actually very beautiful. From the outside it looks like nothing, but the moment you step in it opens up to a big courtyard type structure with four pillars shooting up towards the ceiling. From this room there are five other rooms that branch off: the kitchen, two living rooms (which have built in sofas lining each of the walls) and two bedrooms - our room was the only one with actual beds – the others just had the sofas that doubled as beds. (There was a second level to our house, which another family lived in.)
The thing that impressed me the most about this new culture, however, was how open everybody seems to be. We had many discussions with Moroccan students and each time they made a point of saying how they never judge people based on race, color or religion. Who knows how true this is actually is, but based on the actions of the people around us it seemed to be the case. We went to some small, rural cities where we had to be the first Americans that the people had seen in a long time, if ever, yet they treated us as if we were as normal as the calls for prayer that you hear five times a day (the first one is at 4 in the morning). They never stared, never seemed to be talking behind our backs, and if they spoke to us it was to welcome us to their country and ask how we liked the tea (which was delicious, and full of sugar!). Another thing that impressed me about the Moroccans was that, at the minimum, they know at least 2 languages fluently (Arabic and French) though the majority that we met knew either Arabic, French and English; Arabic, French and Spanish; or all of the above. In our host family the two brothers (whom were 26 and 32) spoke all 4 languages more or less, but the mother only spoke Arabic; either meaning that multilingualism seems to be a rather new concept or that it is something that more men learn than woman.
(old roman ruin: Chellah)
By far the most local, authentic experience we had was the hammam – a Muslim bath house. The hammam is comparable to a sauna in the United States; comparable in the sense that it makes you sweat, everything else is a little bit more strange. There are three rooms going from coldest to hottest and the idea is to sit in the hot room (something like 51 Celsius, which I would say the equivalent of in Farenheight but it just sounds too hot) for 15 minutes then move to the medium room where you can either chose to wash yourself or hire somebody else to do it. Three of my friends and I, thinking that it was probably one of those rare, once in a life time “opportunities” decided to hire somebody else to do it. Communicating this proved to be very difficult and eventually a worker arrived who was able to translate the following sentence to us in his broken English: “Who here wants the old man to rub them down?” I don’t know if anything has ever sounded more awkward in all my life, or actually was more awkward, but we went ahead and did it anyways. The old man was indeed old; he had at most 4 teeth, was wearing underwear and nothing else, was incredibly hairy, but could scrub the body like nobody’s business. He had us lie down and then took a coarse rag – comparable to sand paper – to our skin and went to work. By the time it was over I had rolls and rolls of dead skin pilled up at the edges of my limbs – on my hands, my ankles, my feet. I think, that with the loss of dead skin and sweat combined, I lost a minimum of 5 pounds that night, and I’ve definitely never felt so clean in all my life.
(Mausoleum of King Mohammad V: side note; not like by many, his son, the current king, is far more popular - helping the poor, a big problem in Morocco)
Another very interesting part of this weekend was a conversation we had with a couple of Moroccan Peace Corp volunteers. They have both been in Morocco for about a year and you could tell how excited they were to be talking in English to Americans in what probably was the first time in as long as they could remember. It sounds like it can be some lonely work at times, imagine landing in a completely foreign country such as Morocco, then driving for 2 days to about as remote a village as one will find where you will be spending the next two years of your life. It makes me reconsider how “hard” I think it is being in Sevilla, Spain for a year. I have a tremendous amount of respect for those guys. I’ve considered the Peace Corp before and though I don’t want to rule it out I don’t think that I could do what they’re doing, maybe a village in South America, but a middle of nowhere place in Morocco is just a little too “middle of nowhere” place for me.
On the third day we went to a one of these middle of nowhere towns and had lunch with a local family. It was like one of those places that you can find in South America where the chickens out number the dogs, which outnumber the cats, which outnumber the people. Lets just say that an afternoon there was sufficient for me. After that we drove to a village called Chefchaouen, which was by far my favorite place in Morocco and probably one of the most beautiful places I have been. It is way high up in the mountains and a river flows right through the town where you can find kids jumping off rocks, ladies doing laundry and people simply enjoying life. The town itself is a maze of narrow streets, barely wide enough to walk in, much less fit a car, and the buildings are all some shade or another of blue or white. It really was an incredible place and I would love, if the opportunity ever presents itself, to go back there someday. Soccer jerseys were also 6 euros there (or 60 duran) as compared to 60 euros in Spain, so lets just say I put my newfound purchasing power to some good use.
The one thing that Spain and Morocco both have in common: Neither have the DENVER BRONCOS!!! The best team that this universe has ever known. My goal here is to, by the time I leave, have this city, or at least my house, decorated in the Orange and Blue (or should I say brown and, like, a very odd yellow) that represents the everything that this world should be.